18 months ago I decided to set off on a different path and put my competitive surfing on hold. It was hard at first and at one stage didn't surf for 9 months. Something that you live for and do everyday taking a backseat. I jumped on a yacht in the Caribbean doing charters with not much time off to get in the water.
As much as I wanted to take my money after the season and go get lost somewhere with warm water and waves, I decided to head to the Med and try find more work, delaying that much needed surf time even more...
I was lucky enough to find work on a great Superyacht but the plan was to be based in the Med where waves are pretty rare. Next thing we were off to Malaysia and closer to finding waves. We surfed some small beaches that were probably half a foot, never the less, I was frothing out!
We got the go ahead to head to the Maldives just over a month ago, where the waves are plentiful!
And then I found myself back in my happy place with cooking waves, warm water and good mates to share it all with. At times its hard to stick to a new life plan, especially when it means sacrificing your day to day passion. But keep the bigger picture in mind and things have a funny way of working out. I couldn't be more stoked to see my work and passion come together again.
Photo: Sam Gardner
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